Franz Josef Glacier Adventure!

Kia Ora!

The moraine field

From Punakaiki's Pancake Rocks, my journey continues south along the West Coast to Franz  Josef township and Glacier in the Southern Alps.   It is on Franz Josef Glacier that I've had my most satisfying adventure so far.  I booked the Half Day Glacier Experience ($123) with Franz Josef Glacier Guides.  (I think there's only one small competitor.)

Three start times are available;  8:30, 10:30 and 12:30.  I chose the 10:30 am with my friend, Natalie.   The cost includes coach to the glacier carpark (5 km, 2 hour return walk, 10 minute drive, or $12.50 return coach), any necessary equipment, and entry to the Glacier Hot Pools ($23 value).  The Experience should last up to 4.5 hours with up to 2 hours ice time.  Participants should be at least of moderate fitness and agility.

Well, the beginning is a little bit of hurry up and wait.  When you arrive at the shop, you have to fill out and sign a health history release.   But interestingly enough, no waiver of responsibility.  Each person is issued a lanyard with 4 colored cards and an id number.  The brochure tells participants not to carry passports, wallets, room keys, etc.  My joke is that your id number is how they identify you if something happens and you end up a popsicle .  (I took all that stuff in my backpack anyway.)

After a brief intro, we all lined up to exchange a color card for any optional equipment we wanted to borrow.  The morning sky was blue and sunny and the forecast was for good weather all day.   I was already wearing water resistant pants.   I did borrow their thick, Goretex blue raincoats because they said that my raincoat was not thick enough.  They're the experts, I listened.  I did borrow the hats and mittens that were offered cuz I forgot my gloves.  I had been advised to borrow their boots by Mike, my AquaTaxi driver (who also gave my a $5 off voucher (coupon) for this company, because the crampons can ruin your boots.  Everyone got the appropriate size set of crampons in a red fanny pack.

Try to find the tiny chains of glacier walkers

We had 2 Guides (and met a 3rd Guide later) during our Valley Walk which follows the Waiho River bed (2 km?, 20-30 minutes).  One Guide, Caleb, led the way and took us on a "secret Guides' track" that took us through the rainforest. (Yes, there is rainforest right next to the glacier.)  Instead of the fairly level riverbed track, this track was narrow and went up and down and for one short stretch was steep.  When we got to the end of the Valley Walk, he waited a couple of minutes and then said, "Anyone that can hear me say this, you are in Group One."   What?!

That's when I realized that the "secret Guides' track" was how they figured to divide the 43 people into 3 groups.   I was 7th or 8th behind the leader and just kept walking and keeping up because I didn't want to hold anyone up.  I dropped a few steps behind on the uphills but caught up on the down and flats.   No one was on my heels or wanted to pass.  But it was a fast pace and a bit of a struggle.   I laughed and told Caleb that I was going to go slower, take pictures and be in Group 2.

Watch where you step!  This hole's deep!

They assured us that we were all going to have the same amount of "ice time".   Anyway,  they had to ask for 6 volunteers to go up a group.  Even then, Group 3 had 18 people; we had 13 people.  It took us about 15 minutes to traverse the moraine, the chewed up rocky area pushed ahead by the glacier flow and left behind as the glacier retreats.  Then we put  on our crampons and then, FINALLY!! we are on the ice.   By now, it's a little past noon.

It is amazing on the ice!  The ice is transparent, white or "ice blue".  The ice is blue because the rest of the color spectrum is absorbed and all that's left are the blues.   Some of the Glacier appears black from afar because of rock dust.  Rock dust is blown onto the ice and is only a thin covering.  When you are next to it, you can see the ice and the dust rubs off easily (getting your hands dirty).

Franz Josef Glacier

The walking surface looked like packed snow in some places and in others, like crushed ice, and in still others, like solid ice with or without crushed ice on top.  We were told by our Guide, Caleb, to follow wherever he steps, ONLY!  After stepping over/by it, Caleb put his pick axe down where a waterfall ended.  I asked him to do it again so I could take a picture.  He not only did it again but also plunged his bare arm into the frozen water up to his Tshirt sleeve.  And he didn't touch bottom!  Yikes!!    It startled several of us and was a good reminder to walk in his footsteps.

Ice tunnel

While we were often able to use ice steps cut by others before us, Caleb did have to clean them up or cut new ones with his pick axe.  Some steps/climbs were very steep; there were rope handrails that Caleb insisted we use.  Palm up when going downhill.  Palm down going uphill.  Crampons ALWAYS face the direction of travel; do not sidestep.  Sometimes we walked quickly, no time for pix (except stolen hurried shots).  Other times we had to stop and wait for Caleb to scout out the best route before proceeding.

We walked past all sorts of ice formations:  crevasses or cracks huge and small, ledges with steep drops, ice walls with deep holes  at the base, and an area that looked to me like The Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz only it was blue.  We squeezed through valleys of ice so narrow that we were unable to walk erect.  It was easier to slide along the curved wall.  I was thankful for the Goretex jacket and hood.   Walls of ice more than 25' high!  We also went through a tunnel/arch that was about  10' long.  It is indescribable; you have to see it for your self!

Group 1 is in the center of this photo

Other than occasional rope handrails, the only material things we saw were a closed blue barrel (near the waterfall) that was filled with emergency equipment like a tent, blankets, food, extra crampons, etc.  and an open wooden box with shovels and pick axes.  The Guides were in contact with each other with radios about ice conditions at various milestones.  We only saw Group 1 once on our ascent.  We could see other groups below us, especially on our descent.  If you zoom into the pix, you can pick out chains of ice walkers.

I am in awe of how this phenomenal environment is natural, how much ice there was, how it was visiably melting, and here we are walking on it!  With the assistance of the Guide and crampons, I am seeing, touching, walking, and climbing on a massive chunk of ice.   The unknown danger of the ice collapsing under our feet with one wrong step was a thrill.

A crevasse

We spent 3 hours on the ice going more than half way up the long moraine you can see in the pictures.    We went beyond the full waterfall and then stopped below it.  Apparently we went within 400 meters of where the Full day Adventurers normally go.  Unless you are super fit and really like cold, the half day adventure is probably enough.  Especially since we were extremely lucky and had a gorgeous day.  It probably wouldn't have been so fun  nor would we have gone so far if it had been raining or snowing.  We stopped for 10 minutes on the edge of the moraine field to take off our crampons and have a snack.   On the way back through the valley, we visited the three waterfalls of Trident Falls.

The high temperature at the township was about 10*C (41*F); I don't know how cold it was on the glacier.  But the sun was shining and ice was melting.  Really cool!  Maybe dangerous?  Our Guide was in Tshirt and ventilated pants.  But he also had to use his pick axe and he was accustomed to the cold.   I was comfortable in a long sleeved shirt most of the time but put on the jacket to slide along the walls.  Gloves are helpful.  Backpacks are a good idea for water, snacks and to stash extra equipment like your jacket, sweatshirt, hat, gloves, etc.    Side satchels were discouraged because of some narrow passages.

The blue "Emerald City"

Franz Josef Glacier is about 12 km long and sits 300 meters above sea level.  It is part of Westland Tai Poutini National Park and a World Heritage Site.   Glaciers are remnants of the Ice Age.  They can grow when snow and ice accumulation exceeds melt, packs down and freezes.  Franz Josef Glacier has advanced and retreated over the years.  Most recently, there has been a net retreat and is expected to be totally melted within 90 years.  Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier, 20km south, are the most easily accessed large Glaciers in the world.  Less than an hour's walk from your car.  If you have the opportunity, walk on a glacier.  It's even more thrilling than paragliding.  I know, I did that too.  I'll tell you about that soon.


Cheers,
Cyn

PS:  Caleb is taking a one year break from the NZ Army and has been Guiding for 7 months.  His eagle eye picked out a small clear quartz rock (looks like ice!) which he gave to me as a memento.   His mum grew up 300 kms from Franz Josef but his family lives on the North Island and he hasn't Guided any of them.

PPS:  I have used crampons and walked on ice before but I can't remember where and when.  Can anyone remind me?  LOL!  I hate to think that one day, maybe not that far off in the future, I will have forgotten this adventure.  But I probably will.